“Fashion illusion” was Rei Kawakubo’s normally brief summation of her latest collection for men, but that was, in fact, exactly what we watched. There is something dialectical in regards to the way Rei works. She’s a thesis one season, presents its antithesis another, then finally synthesizes both approaches. This was the situation for Fall, which had been a–dare I use the distinctly un-Comme word? –gorgeous summation of some ideas she’s been toying with for a while.
Kawakubo’s longtime hatter Stephen Jones accessorized the clothes with unforgettable pieces of headgear from his own archives, which appeared to highlight the reality that we were being provided an overview of some kind. The versions had the limpid eyes and marcel-waved hair of silent film starlets. On their feet were leopard slip-ons with jeweled buckles, or two-tone patent Mary Janes with big bows. And, by means of unholy contrast, they were sporting classic tailored suits in grey flannel, pinstripe, and bird -eye. Rei utilized her illusi